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It occurred to me today as I was carving wax in an intricate Celtic pattern for a casting, that it is very odd in some ways that waxwork is a metalsmithing skill! The process has pretty much nothing whatsoever to do with working with actual metal; it's just that since the goal is to make a metal thing out of the wax eventually, it's sort of an honorary metal skill.

I can see why there are those who specialize in it alone, though, some of whom don't work with metal at all!

I did a few rounds of depletion gilding on the cloisonne backings, after smoothing off the surface some more. Another pass or 2 should do it.

I also did some more work on the repair/reworking of my trillium pin/pendant. As I was fiddling with the central tube rivet to get the stone's "stem" to fit through it, the petals started to rotate again. So I acquiesced to the inevitable and drilled another, 1mm, hole very close to the central one- close enough that the stone will cover it when replaced- and riveted it a second time with a tiny piece of 18 ga. wire. Ha! Now just TRY to rotate! I was again grateful for my wonderful mini-stakes, because a couple of them made this process relatively painless, and it would not have been without them. I also see that I could if necessary glue the "stem" of the stone- it sticks out from the back of the cab setting- into the central tube rivet hole if necessary. This is a relief! I'm not sure that I have enough length to re-rivet it, plus of course hammering on the other end of something that has a large citrine cab on one end is a somewhat dangerous proposition!

Now that I know more or less what I'm doing, I can do the same work on the other pin, thereby fixing its problems and then being able to offer it for sale. I will be much happier sending it off when the petals and leaves aren't rotating like a pinwheel, and the pin is steel!

I have not yet begun the meanders around the features on my plique smiley; I'm planning on working on that, and on texturing the cloisonne metal, tomorrow while my student is here. Both are easily interruptable, which make them good candidates for that time.

Tonight J is planning on getting some new pictures of some of the work I want to put up on Etsy. Cool! I did add an enameled bat tie tack yesterday, but the photo I had was a bit low-res so it's grainy at full size. (The url is http://afmetalsmith.etsy.com, but so far there are only 2 things up. I'm looking to change that ASAP!)

Date: 2006-08-17 08:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] afmetalsmith.livejournal.com
I agree- wax carving has its charms! It's a nice blend of exacting and meditative for me.

I've been using the blue wax that comes in slabs, but am not all that thrilled. I think I'm going to get some green, both in slabs and in sheet- I know they're different consistencies, but if the green sheet carves well, I'll spend a lot less time thinning down slabs for relief pendants!

Date: 2006-08-17 09:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] medvssa.livejournal.com
If I remember well, at school they said that the difference was the hardness, pink being the softest, for making texture passing on rollers or so (it was crap to use for anything but that, waaay too soft), then purple, then blue (I haven't tried those) the hardest being the green. They recommended this for more detail and more finishing possibility, as you can sand it pretty fine.
I think that green will carve great. What tools do you use? I only used this kind of thing that I don't know the english name: http://www.ferreteriaortiz.es/store/fotos/250x250/03590172.jpg and files. I got a set for carving wax but I still didn't try it...

Date: 2006-08-18 08:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] afmetalsmith.livejournal.com
Blue is pretty soft for a carving wax. I'm using it now because it's what I have, but I think the green will be better for what I'm doing.

I'm not sure if the sheet wax and the slab wax have the same color codes; that why I just ordered a box of the green sheet (in, I think 2mm thickness) and a box of the green slabs (4.5mm thickness- my blue is, I think 6mm, and I do a LOT of filing to reduce it to 1.5mm or so!). I've not found much use fot he pink myself, though i do have a bit I got in a sample kit.

For tools I am mostly now using the Kate Wolfe set (http://www.wolftools.biz/) which J was nice enough to give me for Xmas last year. They do rock! I also use some altered dental picks that I begged from my dentist- who thought I was nuts!- and then formed to what I needed.

The picture you linked to looks like a ball bur to me- I think one meant for wax. I really prefer hand tools for wax. Wax carves so fast compared to metal that I think something on the flex-shaft would get me into deep trouble pretty fast! :)

I have been eyeing some needle file and riffler sets with longing, though....

Date: 2006-08-19 09:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] medvssa.livejournal.com
That set looks great! *bookmarks* and all the explanations... what a great present.
I have something almost exactly like this: http://www.ehobbytools.com/media/83220s.jpg
I guess that is the typical thing.

Yeah I think they are mostly used with wax, those balls, cones, cylinders and so on. I used the motor on a low setting most of the time. With a big "ball bur" you can make an imitation hammered texture on the wax, I did that here: http://www.innershelter.net/index.php?s=cast&i=2
The picture is quite bad, I have to replace it.

I didn't know what a riffler was, but googling, yeah! I had two of those, one got stolen, the other I don't even know where it is now :( but they were great for wax!

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